2013年11月20日 星期三

2012-3-2 Meet the models breaking the mould✍

At the age of 14, Andrej Pejic liberated himself. For years, he had tried to be a conventional boy - he'd stopped playing with Barbies, he'd started to wear baggy clothes and caps, he'd even had a go at Aussie rules football. But it just didn't seem right, and the more laddish he tried to be, the more the other boys called him gay or a girl.

14歲時,Andrej Pejic釋放了自己。多年來他始終努力做個刻板印象中的男孩,不再玩芭比娃娃,開始穿著鬆垮衣物和棒球帽,甚至玩起澳式足球。但情況似乎沒有改變,他越是試著男孩子樣些,一些男孩反而稱他是同性戀或女生。

So he went with his instincts. "Liberation came in a bottle of bleach," he laughs. Out went the sandy-brown hair, in came the blond bombshell. To some he was a ridiculously beautiful girl, to others he was an even more ridiculously beautiful boy. He was happy to occupy an androgynous halfway house that defied definition.

於是,他決定聽從本能。"從一瓶染髮劑開始"他笑著說道。揮別了沙棕色頭髮,取而代之的是金髮女郎。對某些人而言,他是個荒謬的美麗女孩,對其他人來說,他是個可笑的美麗男孩。而他則很高興佔據雌雄莫辨位處中間推翻了定義。

Pejic has always felt something of an outsider. He was born in Bosnia to a Bosnian Serb mother and Croat father. When he was two months old, civil war and ethnic cleansing ruptured the country. His father's family no longer welcomed his mother, his mother's family no longer welcomed his father. His mother (then a judge, now a teacher) fled to Serbia with Andrej, his older brother and their grandmother, where they lived in a refugee camp. Meanwhile, his father, an economist, obtained a divorce without their knowing.

Pejic始終覺得自己是個局外人。他在波斯尼亞出亞出生-有一對塞爾維亞母親和克羅地亞父親。2個月大時,內戰和種族的衝突讓國家分裂。他的父親家族不再歡迎他的母親,同樣的,母親家族也不再歡迎他的父親。他的母親(當時是律師,現在則是老師)帶著Andrej和他的哥哥與祖母逃到了塞爾維亞的難民營。同時,他的經濟學家父親,在他們不知情的情況獲准離婚。

"The most traumatic thing I remember is the Nato bombings," he says. "I was seven and there were bombs falling close to us. Everybody lived in fear."

"我最記得的創傷大概就是北約轟炸"他說。"當時我7歲,無數炸彈落在我們附近,每個人都活在恐懼之中。"

At eight, the family moved to Australia. He was a girly boy in the ultimate macho land. "As I got older, I saw the differences in the way men behaved, and I tried to suppress my feminine side - but it wasn't a perfect act. People noticed that in the playground."

在他8歲時,這個家庭搬到了澳洲。他是有點女孩子氣的男孩,卻住在一個很男性的世界。"當我更長大些,我看到男性舉止的表現差異,我試圖壓抑我女性化的一面-但這不是個完美的方式。在運動場上人們都注意到這點。


It was when he dropped the act that Pejic began to feel at ease with himself. "I acquired a lot more friends, became more social and I didn't get bullied. So the way I look now is the way I looked from 14/15."

於是他放棄了,Pejic開始放心做自己。"我反而交到更多朋友,更加社會化也沒有被欺負,我現在的樣子是從我14、、15歲時就開始的。


How did his mum react when he adopted his androgynous look? "I wouldn't say she was the most forward-thinking, modern woman. In the beginning she was scared for my safety. But the most important thing to her was for me to be happy and healthy."

他媽媽對他雌雄莫辨的打扮有何反應?"我不能說她一開始就想法前衛和開明。起初,她會擔心我的安全。但最終我的快樂和健康才是對她最重要的。


Do lots of straight men accidentally hit on him? "Story of my life! Never really gay men. I think I was always too feminine." How do heterosexual men react when they realise he is a man? "A lot are shocked. They're never aggressive and a good percentage are even more interested." Do girls fancy him? "Yeah. I definitely get both sides."

大多數的直男碰上他是何種反應?我的人生故事!還從未碰上男同性戀者。我想是我太女性化了。"直男意識到我是男人時,他們的反應都是很震驚。但他們也沒因此惱羞,大多數都還挺感興趣的。"女孩們也會被他吸引?" 當然,我兩邊都吃的開。"


He thinks of himself neither as gay nor straight. "For me, love has no boundaries. I'm not an extremely sexual person, but I am romantic." He doesn't object to the word transgender, but says it isn't accurate - he has no desire to be a woman. Androgynous, he says, best sums it up. "I'm pretty happy with how I am now." When Pejic was growing up, David Bowie was an influence, as were British new romantics such as Boy George and Pete Burns. Pejic turned down a place at law school to pursue modelling. At some point he hopes to take up law again.

他不覺得自己是同性戀也不是異性戀。"對我來說,愛沒有界限,我不是個對性有特別慾望的人,我想我是浪漫主義。"他不反對變性這個詞彙,但這也不準確-他並不渴望成為女人。雌雄莫辨,他說,這是最好的總結了。"我對我自己現在很滿意。"Pejic的成長過程裡,David Bowie是個影響,或如新英國浪漫 Boy George和Pete Burns。Pejic推掉了進入法學院的機會而選擇追求模特工作。他希望在某個時間時,他能再次就讀法律,


In the two years he has been modelling, Pejic has created his own niche - he can model as man, woman or nonspecific. He was discovered when working at McDonald's. Did the agent think he was a man or woman? "I don't know - he never said." Although the Australian agency signed Pejic, they had trouble convincing others there was a future for him. "All these agencies in London said no because they didn't know how to market me. I was too feminine for menswear, but there was never a boy who had made a lot of money doing womenswear, so it was a financial thing. I still have to prove myself to be commercially viable."

在這2年裡他一直做著模特工作,Pejic創造了屬於自己的利基-他能同時身兼男女模的工作,或是非特異性。在麥當勞打工而被發掘,當時的經紀人認為他是男人還是女人?"我不知道-他從沒說過。"雖然澳洲經紀公司簽下了Pejic,卻碰上如何說服廠商雇用他的瓶頸。"幾乎所有在倫敦的公司都拒絕了,因為他們不知道怎麼推銷我。我穿男裝又顯得太女性,而在這之前從沒有哪個男孩可以走女裝獲得更多報酬,這是很現實利益的事。我得證明在商業市場上我是可以的。


It was in Paris that his career took off, when he worked in both men's and women's shows for Jean Paul Gaultier and in the men's shows for Marc Jacobs. "That's when I got a huge amount of recognition. It was very high end. The downside was I'd never make a lot of money from it, but the plus was I got more media attention." Pejic is currently ranked 18 on models.com's top 50 male models list.

於是在巴黎他的事業起飛了,當他同時走了Jean Paul Gaultier的男女裝秀以及 Marc Jacobs的男裝秀。"終於,我獲得很多關注。就像是攀上頂點。可惜我沒因此賺很多錢,但我得到很大的媒體關注。"Pejic目前在models.com排名前50名男模佔第18名。


Does he prefer women's or men's clothes? "Women's clothes are less restrictive; I definitely have more fun with womenswear."

比較喜歡走女裝還是男裝?"女裝對我的限制較少,我肯定比較享受走女裝秀。"

How would he describe himself to somebody who's never seen him before? "A hot tall blond!" he says with a giggle.

他會如何像沒見過他的人描述自己?"金髮高挑美女!"他笑著說。


What makes a good model, and whom do you admire?

Somebody who just lets go and becomes a canvas for art or fashion. I admire Kristen McMenamy.

如何做個稱職的模特? 哪位模特讓你最為欣賞?
放開自己,讓藝術和時尚揮灑。我很敬佩Kristen McMenamy。

What have you eaten today?

Cereal, then a pumpkin sandwich for lunch and sushi for tea. To maintain a 25-inch waist, you can't go round eating cakes and chocolate.

你今天吃了甚麼?
穀物,之後是午餐的南瓜三明治和午茶時間的壽司。為了保持25英吋的腰圍,你不能碰巧克力蛋糕。

What was your worst job?
I was working in Finland on a nature shoot in a swamp, and I fell in the water and really hurt myself. We kept on shooting, and I later discovered I'd fractured a rib.

你工作中碰過最糟的狀況是甚麼?
我在芬蘭一個沼澤拍攝的時候,我跌落水裡,受傷了。但我們不能中斷拍攝,後來我才發現我跌斷了肋骨。

What is the worst thing anybody has said to you?
I'm not easily offended.

別人對你說過最惡毒的話是甚麼?
我沒那麼容易被傷害。

Would you recommend modelling to your children?
If I think they could do it, yes.

你會讓你的小孩做模特嗎?
如果我認為他們有能力,我就會贊同。

Who is your favourite designer?
Alexander McQueen and Thierry Mugler.

你最愛的設計師是?

Alexander McQueen和Thierry Mugler。



Interview by Simon Hattenstone



http://www.guardian.co.uk/fashion/2012/mar/02/models-breaking-mould?newsfeed=true

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2019-5-24 Sunday Life

3、4月時,Andreja曾待在澳洲一段時間 當時也有看到分享一些拍攝中的影片,這個就是當時之一。