2011-2-28 Oyster #91: Andrej Pejic✍

Androgyny is a buzzword that has been embraced by the fashion pack for as long as we can remember, but the recent appearance of transgender models on international runways has kicked gender bending into overdrive. In the nineties, supermodels Omahyra Mota and Kristen McMenamy made their mark with their masculine look. A decade later couture sensations Iris Strubegger and Hannelore Knuts stepped into fill their shoes. Compelling and confrontational, the gender dichotomy has never failed to push a few buttons — but the archetypal tomboys and biker bitches of the past were nothing like the androgynes of the new era.

Riccardo Tisci, creative director of fashion titan Givenchy, changed all the rules when he chose to feature his transsexual personal assistant, Lea T, as the star of the brand’s Fall Winter 2010 campaign. The brooding Brazilian’s gothic aristocracy embodied the Givenchy aesthetic, and Tisci single-handedly created a new transgender perception of beauty. Word was out — femme males were in.
This reverse role-play of the sexes has now created a niche for effeminate male models. The buzz is palpable, and Melbourne model Andrej Pejic is at the centre of the hysteria.

In Oyster #91, Renee Warne asked the epicene beauty how all this twisted transgender attention sits with his own perceptions of sexuality. Here is an excerpt of the interview, along with a selection of the images.

Renee: What was your reaction when first approached to play a role in women’s fashion?

Andrej: It was expected, almost inevitable. I remember the first time. I had just finished with L’Oréal Melbourne Fashion Festival, and Geoffrey J. Finch, the designer for Antipodium, asked me if I’d open his show in Sydney. I of course had no qualms, and the experience was unreal.

第一次接觸女性時尚時感覺如何?

顯然這是無法預期的。我還記得第一次參與L’Oréal 墨爾本的時裝週,以及Antipodium的設計師Geoffrey J.問我有沒有意願到雪梨走秀。我當然毫不猶豫答應,這些體驗都有點不真實。

Renee: Has your success in women’s shows and editorial had an effect on your bookings in menswear?

Andrej: Well, my success in women’s editorial has definitely had a positive impact on my career overall. There are levels of high fashion that male models never really reach; to be in Vogue can only mean good things.

女性市場如此成功,這對男模工作有沒有影響?

我在女性市場的成就肯定為我的工作帶來正面的影響。這是許多走高級時裝的男模也不見的會有的;在時尚界裡這是好事。

Renee: You have played a key role in bringing about positivity for, and acceptance of, transsexuals. How do you feel about being tasked with being a poster boy for the transgender movement?

Andrej: I’m not really keen on the idea of being a poster boy for anything. I think it makes for a very limited existence. However, bringing awareness to an often isolated, misperceived and mistreated minority is something I’m very happy to do. Other models have spoken out about feeling displaced and isolated as a result of their appearance.

你帶來的影響和人們的接受度對變性族群起了作用。會覺得自己是像是這個群體的代言人/形象大使嗎?

我對代言人/形象大使沒有甚麼想法。我覺得這個影響力是很有限的。不過,如果這有助於人們對少數群體的認識,可以減少誤解和傷害,我會很高興。Other models have spoken out about feeling displaced and isolated as a result of their appearance.

Renee: Is this something you have struggled with?

Andrej: I think you may be referring to Lea T. She has stated this, however it isn’t her appearance that is the isolating factor — she is a beautiful girl — rather it is the backward perception many people have of transgender individuals. This, however, is the fault of our governments and ruling circles, which are not even interested in such issues. Religious stigma and the media also play very negative roles. I personally feel very accepted in the fashion industry, [as well as] by my family and friends; however I’m aware that there are many who disapprove of the way I am, and at times I do find this saddening.

你是否為此而奮鬥?

我想你說的是Lea T。她就是個例子。她的外貌並不是她被孤立的原因-她是個美麗的女孩-但很多人對變性者的想法卻很落伍。這就是政府和施政者的問題,但他們對此卻毫不關心。宗教歧視而媒體也常常造成負面作用。我被時尚界認可,家人和朋友也都接受我,但這不代表我不知道有許多人不認同我,有時候我也會覺得難過。

Renee: Your success as part of this movement has seen you travel around the world, working with some of the highest profile talents in the industry. How has your experience affected your perceptions of beauty and sexuality?

Andrej: I admit that working in this industry has changed my perception of beauty. People I once thought were the most beautiful seem less so, and people who would have seemed strange to me before seem the most beautiful. However, all the great human achievements have resulted from intelligence and creativity, not physical appearance, so the amount of importance I place on beauty hasn’t changed. When it comes to sexuality… well, I’ve learned that it’s never straightforward, but at the end of the day it’s a job, not a whole new identity.

你是個成功的例子,你遊走在世界各地與這產業的知名人士工作。這些體驗,對美麗和性特徵的想法有甚麼影響?

我承認這行業確實讓我改變對美的想法。我曾經覺得漂亮的人現在看來似乎不是,人們在覺得我漂亮之前也曾覺得我怪異。但,人最好的一面,應該是智慧和創造力而不是外在。所以這對我並沒有太大改變。至於性象徵......我知道這不是三言兩語能明瞭的,但對我來說這只是一天的工作內容,不代表是個新身分。

Interview: Renee Warne
http://oystermag.com/andrej-pejic
Renee Warne writes.
Photography: Jez Smith @ Vivien’s Creative
www.jezsmithphotography.com.au
Hair: Gavin Anesbury @ RP Represents using ghd
Make-up: Natasha Severino @ The Artist Group using M.A.C Cosmetics
Make-up Assistant: Peter Beard
Fashion: Kelvin Harries @ The Artist Group
Model: Andrej Pejic @ Chadwick

點選網址，該系列還有其他圖片。