2014年2月25日 星期二

無性別時尚

一切都源於這篇- Tim Gunn On Transgender Models, His Sexuality & Finding Role Models

我覺得這並不能說是針對性發言,當然,當你提到某個人,你很難說不是。

On the issue of transgender models, however, Gunn is at odds with himself, especially when it comes to androgynous models, like Andrej Pejic, modeling women's clothing. 
"The fact that fashion designers would put basically adolescent-shaped boys or men in women's clothes is head-scratching for me because, anatomically, women and men have different shapes," he says. "So, to be looking at women's fashion on a tall, skinny guy with no hips, there's no way you can project yourself into those clothes."

With all of the flak the fashion world receives for perpetuating body image issues for women, some might think that models like Pejic make the waif standard all the more unattainable by telling women they're not supposed to have hips in the first place. "It underscores all of those body issues that we know women have," Gunn says. "It's the world telling us that there's something wrong with us and that we'd look better in our clothes and the world would think us more beautiful if we looked like this. I think it's horrible."

But the use of trans models isn't a black and white issue, even to Gunn. "I'm conflicted," he says. "On one hand, I don't want to say that because you were a man and now you're a woman, you can't be in a women's fashion show. But I feel it's a dicey issue. The fact of the matter is, when you are transgender -- if you go, say, male to female -- you're not having your pelvis broken and having it expanded surgically. You still have the anatomical bone structure of a man."

大概的意思,提到Andrej走女裝秀。

而一些設計師將青春期的男孩或男人的基本型概投注在女裝上讓他感到頭痛,因為男女的生理形狀並不同。

所以,當你在女裝時尚上看到一個高瘦穿著女裝但沒臀部的男人時,你根本無法想像自己穿著那件衣服會是什麼模樣。

所以,從Tim Gunn的言論來看,他其實不是很贊同男性去走女裝這塊。因為男性的生理形狀沒有女性的線條,無法展現女裝。

其實有點小失望,我覺得他應該會是那種樂見時尚產業有越來越多,各式各樣的特色的人,進入這個產業。
不過早在Andrej首場JPG秀時,就有人不認同這種現象,也是針對身材。

但我覺得Andrej在這產業已經是則傳奇了,androgynous models確實是因為他的出現而引起很大的關注,而他也不是剛好一股熱潮而曇花一現的那種存在。


放上一張Andrej跟好友的合照。至於馬賽克裡的模樣,就任憑想像了:p


http://instagram.com/p/k3IslpGDk0/

5 則留言:

  1. 我、我又來了(灬ºωº灬)
    我有將AP的推特通知打開
    所以前幾天的凌晨真是 十分熱鬧
    看著她的情緒起伏變化
    尤其是這篇推特的那個凌晨 等整個事件結束也差不多六點了
    而我也差不多那個時候才去睡覺.....(為了想搞懂文章到底在講什麼...)

    平常會看Project Runway 說實話Tim有這樣的想法真是頗意外
    AP像個革命烈士一樣打先鋒 各種含沙射影的言論都必須承受
    但她就是個特別的存在 重新定義藝術與男女無關
    還沒開發過的道路總是崎嶇難走 只希望她別為了迎合而改變
    流言蜚語不會消失 覺得疲憊了就像今天推特那樣想想家人
    跟朋友Niki complain消氣 然後打起精神深呼吸 世界還是很美好 無須比較^3^

    哈哈哈只是我個人的小小小小小想法
    至少我很開心她最近的心情(好像)又好了起來
    啊~聽說四月MCM就會有正式櫃 除了朝聖之外 還得看個美美的lookbook呢:D
    (不小心又打多了..)
    版主回覆:(2014-02-28 17:23:07)
    我對Tim的言論感到驚訝,從APP那看到一篇連結報導,很顯然Tim一直都不是樂見這種現象。但我覺得他並不是全然的針對AP,而是設計師設計出來的衣服。

    走在前面的人,得到支持的同時也不免面對反對的聲音,但她EQ高,脾氣也很好。一直以來面對這類問題,應對向來都很得體。同時他也很聰明,知道自己立足在這個產業的特色是什麼。重要的是她要對自己滿意。

    之前有看過有人拿到型錄的分享,希望台灣也有。

    我很歡迎你的留言,部落格經營到現在,只收到兩位訪客的留言(你是當中一位),之前都會想,到底有沒有人在看?雖然點閱數有再增加。所以能收到留言我很開心:)

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  2. 有 ,有人在看!
    版主回覆:(2014-03-04 14:46:59)
    謝謝你的留言:D
    有時這麼想時,又會想到"有時更新時自己就沒寫甚麼東西,要人回應也太勉強人了"這樣。
    總之謝謝!

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2019-5-24 Sunday Life

3、4月時,Andreja曾待在澳洲一段時間 當時也有看到分享一些拍攝中的影片,這個就是當時之一。