✍ = 中文翻譯
"The whole collection is a reflection of who I am," Andrej told us. "Being free is not about defying rules; it's using rules and manipulating rules to define form." Proceeds from the 10-piece line-up, available now, benefit the Ali Forney Center, which is "dedicated to homeless LGBT youth and finding housing for them. It's a small, niche charity, but there's huge demand for it. In New York, there's something like 3,800 homeless kids and only 240 beds. It's at epidemic levels, and this is a community that I want to support," Andrej, 22, says. Many of the teens the Ali Forney Center works with have been banished from their homes. "Growing up, I had a very loving family," she says. "My parents accepted their children for whoever they were and loved them no matter what. These kids don't have that-I wouldn't even say privilege-they don't have that right."
The collection's rings, bracelets, and necklaces (plus an ear cuff) also come with a story. "It's all 3D-printed, which is like the word of the year," says Andrej. Snyder and Gurtovaya form handmade clay models from their sketches, then create a form using CAD. They make a plaster version after high-resolution wax is used to print the designs. Finally, the plaster prototype is encased by molten metal, which becomes the finished product after being buffed to a sharp sheen. Andrej's favorite piece? The silver choker pictured above.
Andrej, who describes herself as "sort of living life in between [genders]," is the first model to have walked in both men's and women's runway shows. "Because of the duality of my career and my life, I've learned about people and psychology," she says. "It's like being in a boy's world and a girl's world. I've learned that we all want the same things-everyone wants to be loved." Andrej believes social politics is a collective responsibility, adding, "I want to use my media exposure to create something bigger."
2014年4月9日 星期三
2014-4-4 Andrej Pejic Discusses Jewelry, Gender Identity & How She's Following in Naomi's Footsteps✍
Out: What inspired your jewelry collection?
Andrej Pejic: The collection is all about defying rules and being free, which I think is the defining characteristic of my career. Rebellion. I don’t think I’ve broken the rules, but I manipulated them to appear in this form. It has a great minimal aesthetic. Every piece reflects my style.
什麼原因激發你想做珠寶設計?
這關於無懼規則和自由,我想這也是我的職業生涯一個指標性的特徵。
我並不認為我已經打破規則,但我用我的設計展現出來。有著小巧的美感。每一個飾品都有我的風格。
How did the Ali Forney Center get involved?
I was looking for a charity and it was very important for me to find one that I could relate to on a personal level. They help homeless LGBT youth in New York, and it’s a huge demand. I just thought it would be a good idea to shed a light on that cause, because a lot of people don’t know that the Ali Forney Center exists. I contacted them, and I went to see them. They were just really lovely.
怎麼決定跟Ali Forney Center合作?
我一直在找慈善機構,我希望可以找到涉及個人層面的機構這對我很重要。他們幫助在紐約無家可歸的青少年同志,這是個重要的需求。我認為這是個很好的合作,因為很多人不知道。於是我連繫他們並去參觀機構,他們真的很友善。
There's an ongoing debate about your gender identity. To set the record straight, how do you see yourself?
These days it’s just like: “whatever.” It comes to the point like, “Who gives a crap?” For me it’s always been important to show it doesn’t matter what gender you are. It doesn’t define who you are. There’s more to me than just that. And I like to express that in many different ways.
關於你的性別認同一直都被人討論著,你是如何看待你自己?
就像我一直以來的回答:"無所謂。"這從來都像是"你在講什麼廢話?"對我來說重要的是,不管你展現什麼樣的性別樣貌,那都無所謂。這不會定義你是誰。當然不僅僅是這樣。這是有許多不同樣子。
Does it matter to you if people refer to you as he or she, or do you just don’t care?
A lot of my friends, close friends, use "she." Professionally, they say he. I really don’t give a shit anymore. [Laughs] I’ve come to that point! I imagine for me it’s freedom.
人們用他或她稱呼你,對你來說重要嗎? 還是你不在意?
一些親密一點的朋友,會用"她"。 正式一點會用他。但我真的不在意。[笑]對我來說是無關緊要不受限制的。
How does the fashion industry respond to that?
I think fluidity and a sort of vagueness have been characteristic of my career and it’s been successful in a lot of ways because of that. I’ve been able to morph into different things, be a chameleon, and I think that’s something very unique that I’ve had a chance to do. So I feel very lucky for that.
時尚界對此有甚麼反應?
多樣性和模糊界限一直是我職業生涯中的特點,這也成功的在各方面印證了。我是一隻變色龍,能夠隨心所欲的變成各種樣貌,而且我還能有機會這麼做,我很幸運。
What would you say to your fans who are confused about gender in fashion?
Do your research, get a lot of information. In regards to modeling, be careful—don’t live for it. It’s just a job.
What would you say to your fans who are confused about gender in fashion?
(抱歉阿,這個問題我實在不知道要怎麼用中文說。)
多做功課,吸收資訊。對於模特工作別抱不實幻想。這只是一份工作。
In addition to your work with the Ali Forney Center, you were part of GMHC’s Fashion Forward fundraiser in 2011. Do you plan to do more work within the LGBT community?
Yes, I try to do more charity work as a whole, and I like working with children. I was very lucky to come from a loving family and I think it’s everyone’s right, actually. Sadly, a lot of these kids don’t have that right, so I would love to do more of that.
除了 Ali Forney Center,你在2011年的GMHC Fashion Forward也曾參與募捐活動。你對LGBT是否有更多想法?
當然,我想嘗試更多與慈善有關的工作,也喜歡兒福方面的工作。我很幸運來自一個充滿愛的家庭,我覺得這是每個人應得的,但事實上有很多這樣的孩子沒有機會,所以我想盡我所能的去做。
There were rumors that you were working on a reality show. Is that still happening?
No, I’m actually making a documentary. I can’t really talk about it. It's about my life, some things that are happening in my personal life and commercial life.
有報導曾說你在拍攝一個實鏡秀。仍舊在進行嗎?
不,事實上是個紀錄片。但我不能多談。是關於我的生活,一些發生在我私人生活和工作實的事情。
Do you know when it’s coming out?
We’ll see…
何時會推出?
拭目以待囉...
You made the OUT100 list in 2011. How has your career evolved since then?
I started out doing like a lot of high fashion, basically just high-end stuff. And it’s expanded into more commercial. I think I’ve sort of become a little bit of a “personality,” if you will, which is cool because I feel like I have something to say, as well as being able to model. So yes, it’s exciting. I’m branding myself. Going the Naomi Campbell route. Trying to follow in Naomi’s footsteps.
2011年你進入OUT100的百大人物之一。在那之後你的工作有甚麼變化?
更多的高級時裝,基本上是一些頂級事物。還有更多的商業工作。我想自己已經有點像是"personality",如果你覺得是的話,這也很酷,我覺得我有些話要說,還有能夠成為模特。所以,這很令人興奮。創立自己的品牌。就像Naomi Campbell一樣。試圖追隨她的腳步。
As everyone should do.
Everyone and their mother.
(我猜這題應該是問他飾品是否適合每個人,然後Andrej的回答,適合每個人跟他們的媽媽。 如果我的理解沒錯。)
What is your favorite piece from the collection?
The choker. It’s the Choker from Hell.
這個系列中最中意的是哪個飾品?
項鍊。It’s the Choke From Hell.
(中文一定有個形容這種樣式的項鍊的名稱,但我怎麼樣都找不到="=)
來源
2014-4-4 Androgynous Model Andrej Pejic Debuts Jewelry Collaboration With Sam H Snyder✍
The 22-year-old (who prefers to identify with feminine pronouns) has taken a bit of a breather when it comes to her modeling career lately in order to work on a variety of other projects, one of which is her first-ever design gig: A collaboration with Sam H Snyder Design on a jewelry collection called Pejic x Snyder. The line, which includes pieces made from silver, palladium, 18k gold and platinum, was created using 3d-printing, and Pejic had a heavy hand in the design process.
“It definitely fits my aesthetic, I don’t like flashy, diamonds — it’s modern and minimal but thick and chunky,” Pejic told us over the phone on Thursday.
The small, New York-based jewelry brand approached Pejic to collaborate, and the model thought that it would be a perfect tie-in to the charity work she’s been looking to do for years. A portion of the proceeds will benefit the Ali Forney Center, which is dedicated to helping homeless LGBTQ youth and providing them with medical assistance. “It’s a niche charity — I was lucky to have a very loving family, but unfortunately that’s not often the case. Kids get kicked out of their house for being who they are,” Pejic told us.
In addition to the charity work, Pejic hopes that her modeling career has been able to reach those who are struggling with their sexuality. “[My career] has helped to raise awareness of this social minority, most people don’t know what the struggles are — my goal has always been to share my story and give a human face to all of that and to show that I can be confident and anyone can be confident in being who they are,” she said. “More transgender girls have come out — in 2010 when I came out I think it did start a wave and opened some doors in the marketplace. I wouldn’t say it’s changed society — it would take a lot more to do that.”
Pejic says that while this is her first foray into the world of design, it likely won’t be her last. “It might not be pure fashion design, but I have a lot of ideas: Things that I’ve gone without or things that should be on the market but aren’t. There will more products and more branding coming from me, for sure.”
Click through to see the campaign images (starring Pejic, of course) and some pieces from the jewelry collaboration.
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22歲的他,在最近的模特生涯中做了不同的嘗試:與Sam H Snyder 合作推出 Pejic x Snyder。該生產把各種元素融合以3D列印打造而成,Pejic對飾品設計佔有很大部分。
"這是我的風格,我不喜歡鑽石般那樣浮誇,而是摩登帶點粗曠感的飾品" 上周四pejic在電話告訴我們
The small,紐約珠寶品牌與Andrej合作。他認為這是完美與慈善合作的工作,也是他多年來想做的事。 一部分的收益將會捐給Ali Forney Center,幫助無家可歸的青少年同志並提供醫療上的資源。"這是一個非營利的慈善機構-我很幸運成長在一個充滿愛的家庭,但這不是很常見的。特別是對這類的孩子,坦白做自己,卻可能面臨被趕出家門的命運。"
除了慈善工作,Pejic也希望能幫助到那些為了自己的性向而苦苦掙扎的人。"[運用我的職業生涯]幫助這個社會更加認識少數族群,大多數人都不知道那種掙扎的辛苦-我的目標是分享我的故事,讓人們瞭解,並希望人們可以勇敢的做自己,"她說。"2010年時,當我開始做模特,當時的市場還是有許多界限，現在越來越多跨性女孩出現了。我不會說社會真的改變了,但確實越來越廣泛的接受多樣性。
pejic說,雖然這是他第一次接觸設計,但不會是最後一次。"(這或許不是個時尚設計),但我有許多想法:市場上許多應該要有,卻消失的東西。我肯定會打造更多的商品和品牌。
來源
相關圖片
2014-4-4 ANDREJ PEJIC & SAM H. SNYDER JEWELRY LINE LAUNCH
Andrej couldn’t help but celebrate with a bunch of high fashion and a few, hopefully soon, high fashion friends. It was a thin line of hipster vs. haute couture and could only be distinguished via the next day’s photos thanks to a very powerful flash. It’s not easy being the world’s most famous androgynous model. When asked what is the theme of the jewelry line?
“The theme for the collection was to defy tradition and rules or bend them to create something unique and free. Something I have been doing in different ways for a while now.”
來源
......我不記得Andrej曾為 Karl Lagerfeld 和 YSL工作過???
2014-4-4 Androgynous male model Andrej Pejic expands his reign on the fashion world by collaborating on jewellery line collection
Pejic also stars in advertisements for the collection, appearing in a short video and a series of photographs which were displayed at the launch.
The promotional shots show the blonde reclining on a bed in a pink dress while flashing his hand which is adorned with the silver rings.
Ahead of the line's launch, Pejic took to Twitter and Instagram to share his excitement, writing: 'Off to my event, decked out in @jpgaultier wearing my choker from hell styled by Miss marcelajacobina.'
For the event, the model wore his signature blond hair out and poker straight and he sported a leather bra that exposed his upper chest and midriff.
With his slim frame on show, he finished his look with a black jacket and a choker.
On Wednesday, Pejic posted a 15-second promotional video for the collection on social media, in which he is seen swirling in a sea of fabric while showing off three different silver rings.
Better-known for modeling womenswear than menswear, in October last year, Pejic played a medieval prince in his first acting role.
The Bosnian-born model starred as 'Radu' - a Romanian who rose to power during the fifteenth century and was known for his 'beautiful' and 'handsome' looks - in the Turkish period drama, Fatih.
As part of his television debut, the six-foot-two-inch blond was required to ride a horse on set in Istanbul.
In February 2013, Pejic made his screen debut as a silent celebrity stalker in David Bowie’s The Stars Are Out Tonight video, alongside Tilda Swinton and Saskia de Brauw.
The model, who was raised in Australia and discovered while working in McDonalds, says he is comfortable modelling both men's and womenswear and aspires one day to model for Playboy.
Pejic has been ranked in models.com's Top 50 Male Models and during his career, he became the first male to be featured on Serbian Elle’s January 2013 issue.
He also appeared in Dutch department store Hema's advertisements for push-up bras and has even catwalk modeled bridal gowns.
He walked both the men's and women's shows for Jean-Paul Gaultier’s Paris Fashion Week shows in January 2011.
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這篇內容其實沒提到什麼新的事情。
他的雌雄同體外貌曾在時尚界引起一股風潮,現在澳洲模特Andrej Pejic將把他的風格帶進其他領域。22歲的他與Sam H Snyder合作設計推出珠寶Pejic x Snyder。一系列的金銀飾品,在上周四的紐約的Gilded Lily發表。
Pejic也為飾品拍攝了廣告和一系列的宣傳片。宣傳片上的他,一頭金髮穿著粉色衣服斜躺在床上,手上的戒指的閃爍著光芒。
Pejic在Twitter和Instagram分享他的喜悅,他寫到:Off to my event, decked out in @jpgaultier wearing my choker from hell styled by Miss marcelajacobina.'
然後提了他出席發表會時的打扮。
說到他去年10月去土耳其演戲的事。以及在2013年2月時跟Tilda Swinton和Saskia de Brauw.一起拍攝David Bowie的The Stars Are Out Tonight這首歌的MV。
在澳洲時在McDonalds工作時被發掘,同時身兼男女模的工作,希望有天能拍Playboy。
是models.com排行第50名的男模,更登上塞爾維亞版的Elle封面,該雜誌已在2013年1月發行。為荷蘭百貨公司代言內衣,走婚紗秀。2011年的1月,同時為Jean-Paul Gaultier的男女時裝秀走秀。
來源
2014年4月5日 星期六
2014-4-4 Q&A: Andrej Pejic on a New Jewelry Line and Life Beyond Modeling✍
Four years ago, when model Andrej Pejic walked in the John Paul Gaultier show, people weren’t sure what to make of him: Here was the prettiest woman they’d ever seen — with long blonde hair and high cheekbones — who just happened to be a 19-year-old boy from Serbia.
Over these last few years, Pejic — who now identifies with female-specific pronouns — has landed major jobs in the fashion world: walking in men’s and women’s shows, and modeling in countless editorials. And around her there have gradually been more images of gender diversity in the fashion world, with models like Casey Legler and Lea T rising to fame, as well as Barney’s much-lauded transgender campaign.
Now Pejic is branching out — and, as many models do, building her brand. Last night at the Gilded Lily, she launched a line of minimal 3-D-printed jewelry in a collaboration with the brand Sam H Snyder. Next, she is shopping an almost-finished autobiography around to literary agents, filming a documentary about her life, and plotting a move into modeling cosmetics. She spoke to the Cut about building Andrej Pejic Inc., how the industry has become more open to gender diversity — and the work that’s still left to be done.
四年前,當模特Andrej Pejic 出現在 John Paul Gaultier 的秀上時,人們無法確信是"他":他們看到了最漂亮的女人-一頭金色長髮和高顴骨-一位來自塞爾維亞的19歲男孩。
過去幾年裡,Pejic已成為了 identifies with female-specific pronouns -出現在各個時尚品牌;游走在男女秀之間,拍攝了無數的editorials。而她也為時尚界帶來更多的性別多樣性,像是模特Casey Legler 和 Lea T以及Barney令人讚嘆的跨性別廣告。
現在,Pejic就像其他模特一樣,建立了自己的品牌。就在昨晚的The Gilded Lily,她推出了與Sam H Snyder聯名設計的3-D-printed jewelry。下一步,她打算推出幾乎完成的自傳,拍攝一部關於她的生活的紀錄片並打算進軍化妝品市場。她談論到建立 Andrej Pejic Inc,這個產業將會對性別有更加的多樣性-當然,這一切都還有待完成。
How did the initial idea for this jewelry collection come about?
I’ve been wanting to do some charity for a while. I wanted to pick something that I cared about and that was a bit personal. The name of the brand [I worked with] is Sam H Snyder. I loved their jewelry; they’ve given me some stuff before and they suggested doing a jewelry collaboration. I thought it would be a great way to combine a charity with that because I’m a fashion model, and I thought that made sense to do a line and give the proceeds to charity.
這個珠寶系列怎麼來的?
我想做跟慈善有關的事有一段時間了。我想做一些,我關心的也有點個人的事。我跟Sam H Snyder一起共事推出品牌。我喜歡他們的珠寶,他們提議可以一起做個珠寶的合作。而我認為與慈善結合起來會是個不錯的方式,我想做一點有意義的事,將所得的款項用於慈善事業。
Are there any jewelry designers who you were inspired by or looking at in the start of this process?
I love costume jewelry, the stuff Givenchy/Riccardo Tisci do, and old school rock ’n’ roll jewelry, too. I actually love the look of men’s rings and men’s jewelry even more than women’s, so it was important for the jewelry to have a [masculine side.] I don’t spend a fortune at Tiffany’s. I like power dressing and it was important to me for the pieces to be strong and bold and make a statement.
有哪個設計師啟發你或從哪個地方得到靈感?
我很愛costume jewelry (*意思是人造或半寶石、玻璃、合金的珠寶),還有Givenchy/Riccardo Tisci 和 old school rock ’n’ roll jewelry。比起女性款式,我更愛男性戒指和飾品。所以陽剛的一面在設計很重要。我不會為了Tiffany花一大筆錢。我喜歡的是 power dressing,這一點對我很重要,我希望能夠呈現勇敢和堅毅。
Do you intend for the jewelry to be worn by both men and women?
I think anything can be worn by both men and women. I think there are pieces for both though, definitely. I don’t think it’s strictly one or the other.
男女性都可以配戴?
我覺得任何一個飾品都可以。我很肯定兩者都能。我不會覺得這是屬於男性或是女性的。
So tell me a little bit about why you chose for part of the proceeds of the sales to go to the Ali Forney Center?
The first time I came to New York — and the first time I saw the movie Paris Is Burning — I learned about the homeless LGBT culture in New York City that goes back to the ’80s. I found that very interesting and it’s definitely something that I care about. It’s a community that I’m part of and it made sense for me to go with them. I was lucky to grow up in a family where your parents loved you no matter what you were, or what you came out as, and a lot of kids don’t have that ride.
可以稍微透露為何你會選擇將收益捐給Ali Forney Center嗎?
我第一次來到紐約,第一次看到Paris Is Burning這部電影,我瞭解到在紐約無家可歸的LGBT文化可以追溯到80年代。這很有趣也絕對是我在乎的事情。這就像是我的一部分,對我來說很有意義。我很幸運,成長在一個不管你是什麼模樣父母都愛著你的家庭。很多的孩子沒有這樣的機會。
Since you began modeling in 2010, your career has really taken off. How have things changed for you: on a personal level, and on a perception level?
I mean, so many things have changed. I’ve grown up since then. I started out as a teenager, [and] I’m 22 now. I feel older because the experience has definitely shaped who I am today and it’s given me the confidence and I’ve definitely grown. Things happened very quickly. I started off doing high fashion, editorial stuff purely. I was getting a lot of media exposure and it sort of kept going. Now I’m at a point where I definitely want to brand myself more. I love modeling and I want to keep doing it for as long as I can.
你在2010年開始模特的工作,你的生涯也確實真正的起步。你的個人或價值觀有甚麼改變嗎?
我想,有很多的事都改變了。從那時我就長大了。不在只是個青少年,現在,我22歲了。
我覺得自己年長了,很多的經驗造就了現在的我,給了我信心和成長。事情發生的很快。開始了高級時裝和editorial的工作。我得到很多來自媒體的曝光,這也一直都持續著。現在我來到一個時間點,我很肯定我要有自己的品牌。我愛模特的工作,只要可以我希望能長遠的一直持續下去。
Everyone and their mother is branding themselves these days. You have Naomi Campbell doing TV, which you know five years ago you’d never imagine. So, I think in this century you have to be multidimensional and you have to expand cover more than just one field.
Do you imagine a lifestyle brand for yourself one day?
Maybe. I’m very — this was a great opportunity to do this for charity, and you know, jewelry I definitely care about. Going forward I definitely will — any sort of product I do — will have a personal association with me. And [a] practical thing too that’s been missing from our lives and I imagine should be on the market, rather than just pure design.
你有想過自己的lifestyle會成為品牌的那天?
也許吧。我非常-這是個很好的機會,能夠與慈善結合,這絕對是我在乎的事情。至於未來,我想我會-開發任何產品-會與個人有關的。事實上,已經有太多的東西從我們的生活和市場裡消失了。所以這不僅僅只是設計而已。
Tell me a little bit about you book. It’s an autobiography, and you started this project because you felt your story needed to be told?
Told from my point of view. I think a life of a human being is not something you can explain in a few interview questions. The stuff you do in the media is sometimes a great reflection and sometimes not a great reflection of who you are as a person. So I think I have an interesting story and interesting background. It was kind of taking things in my own hands. It feels sort of liberating and that’s why I wanted to do it, to explain who I am to the world from my point of view, because even though I’ve had a lot of exposure I haven’t exposed myself completely.
可以透露一點自傳的事嗎? 你會這麼做,是因為你覺得你需要述說你的故事嗎?
這是從我的視角述說。我覺得一個人的人生不是你在幾次訪問裡就能被瞭解。從媒體呈現出來的,有時是很好的反思/想法,但有時根本不是。所以.既然我有一個有趣的故事和背景。那就由我自己來說。這有點得到解脫,這就是為什麼我想這麼做,從我的視角我的世界來敘述,因為盡管我有無數次的曝光,但我從沒真的述說我自己。
Do you think the world is still confusion out there about you and who you are?
Yeah, definitely. That’s kind of been a defining characteristic of my career.
你覺得世界對你還有你是誰仍舊感到混亂?
絕對是。這也是我職業生涯中的一個絕對的定義特徵。
How would you describe what people currently think about you?
For me, it was always very important to not be labeled and restricted and placed in a box. And have a label stamped and be typecast. That’s what I always try to steer away from, so I didn’t reveal a lot of things about how I felt about some things, or on a emotional level. It was important to keep my privacy throughout all of this. So I think the book is kind of a step away from that. It’s kind of me, more exposed than I’ve ever been. I think the time is right, and I feel comfortable, and I feel confident.
你怎麼形容別人對你的看法?
對我來說,沒有標籤和限制來定義你,這一直都很重要。這是我一直試圖擺脫的一點,所以我也沒透露太多自己的事情或我如何看待一些事,甚至是情感面。保持隱私對我來說很重要。這本書是一個平台,這是由我自己做的,透露了更多的我。現在一個很好的時間點,我覺得很好也有信心。
So you’re going to answer in the book questions that people may have about your gender and sexuality?
Yes, exactly. All out.
所以,你會在這本書裡回答,人們對你的性別和性向的問題?
是的。毫無保留。
I know you’ve been very private since the beginning of your career, and when we last spoke it was certainly that way. Have you opened up over the past few years?
Over time, yeah. In the beginning, that’s how you model, to be a high-fashion model — I mean normally, you’re not even doing interviews, but because I had so much attention from the media, it was very important for me to kind of keep the image under control and have it complement my career. But over time, as I became more comfortable, and I could see that people could like me for who I am — I opened up more, definitely.
我知道你的職業生涯開始已經是很私人,當我們最後一次談論時。所以在過去幾年裡,你已經不那麼保留了?
經過了一段時間,是的。一開始,作模特,成為高級時裝的模特我的意思是在一般的情況下是這樣。但我還沒被採訪,就已經得到很多媒體的關注。如何在工作和自己之間保持一個平衡變得很重要。(*我覺得這段是在說一些私人照片和隱私的事)但之後,我變得比較適應,我可以看到人們喜歡看到我自己。-我想我沒那麼保留了。
So it’s a little about growing up.
Yeah, it’s a little bit about that. I think everyone’s scared. Every person just wants to be liked. That’s something you carry on from high school, and you just kind of want your peers to like you, and then sometimes you. So it’s just about being yourself and I think over time I’ve definitely grown and built up the confidence.
所以這有關乎到你成長時(青少年)的故事。
是的,有一點點。我覺得每一個人都有一點點不安。都想被人喜愛。你帶著這樣的心情進入高中生活,你希望跟你同年齡人會喜歡你,甚至就只是你。所以這關乎到做你自己,我想隨著時間的成長,我也建立了信心。
So when you were profiled in New York you said that you wanted your gender to be open for "artistic interpretation."
That was a career strategy, you know, and it was successful.
所以當你在紐約 profiled ,你說你的性別是"為藝術詮釋。"
這是事業上的一個策略,而你知道這很成功。
When you say it was a career strategy, you mean that creating ambiguity was a strategy?
Well, you know, I mean I had the physical ambiguity already, it was just about going with that on some level. I think I did that successfully.
當你說這只是一個職業策略,你的意思是模稜兩可?
你要知道,我的意思是,我有一個性別模糊的身體外貌,這某個程度上這兩者是這樣。而我確實成功做到。
Was there a turning point when you decided not to have that narrative anymore?
I think that those elements still exist. I still model as both a man and a woman. I don’t constrict myself.
會不會有個可能讓你不用在述說某些事?
我認為一切都還是在的。我仍舊是游走在男女模工作的模特。我不想限制自己。
Are you more clear now about how you want to be identified?
I still, to me it’s like, I say I live life in-between. That’s kind of been the case, well, since I was a teenager.
你會更清楚定義你自己?
我就像我這樣,活在兩者之間。一直都是這樣,從我還是青少年時就是如此。
The industry has also changed around you as you’ve been working these last few years. There have been some important moments for the LGBT community and androgyny.
When me and Lea [T] came out, we started a wave of androgyny and the whole in-between thing and now this, from that, I think now the fashion industry is definitely more open to androgyny and to a transgender model. You know I think it’s early stages, you know, I say it’s like African-American models in the 90s in the industry. It will take time for it to be completely integrated. But yeah, it’s a beginning. It’s really cool.
在過去幾年裡,這個產業確實有些變化。對LGBT community和androgyny也有了重要時刻。
當我和Lea T出現時,我們開始了雌雄同體和兩者之間的事,而現在來看,我覺得時尚界是更加開放了 ,雌雄同體和跨性模特。但我認為這還是個初期階段,就像90年代非洲裔的模特出現在這行業。這需要時間才能整合。這還是個開始。這真的很酷。
Do you feel attitudes have changed toward you in a way from when you started?
Oh yeah. I started out and people were like, “What are you?” and “Who are you?” We don’t want to put you on the men’s board, and don't know who to market you to. There was just a lot of confusion. And I feel like that I’ve sort of broken the ice, and I’ve sort of proven that I can be successful and not change. I think that that definitely changed the way people see me, I think I have more respect than I did in the beginning. And yeah, I think that’s by the amount of new faces coming out that are androgynous or trans it shows that.
你覺得人們對你的想法是從甚麼時候開始改變的?
跟很多人都是一樣的,"你是什麼模樣?"和"你是誰?"
我們不想把你設置在男性的樣子裡,也不確定要怎麼包裝你。就只有很多的不確定。而我想我打破了一些限制,並證明不須改變也能成功。我想是改變了人們對我的看法,比開始時得到更多尊重。而更多雌雄同體或跨性別的新臉孔已經充分的顯示這點了。
When you say there’s still work to be done in the industry, what do you mean?
The day when it’s not a big deal is when it’s going to be done. The day when a transgender model is cast for a show and you don’t even think about it. If she has the right look, she gets the show. It’s not like, “Should she be in the show because she’s trans?” It comes down to what modeling is really about: what you look like. So when that discrimination is gone, and when it becomes obsolete, is when it’s done.
當你說這個產業還有更多的事要做,你的意思是?
The day when it’s not a big deal is when it’s going to be done.
有天一個跨性別模特進入一個秀,你不想到會有的這一天。如果她的型對了,她值得得到機會。而不是,"讓她進入這個秀只因為她是跨性者?"模特工作最終的取決結果是:你的樣子。所以當不再存有歧視,已經不再有這問題,就是完成的時候。
Are there other design goals that you have?
Hmmm. I would like to do like a unisex line at some point. I think that would be interesting, at this point. I think that’s where fashion is heading, that’s the future. I think it’s so hard for a brand to come out like that because there’s still a structure and, like, different buyers need to know if it’s men’s or women’s. I think that’s probably going to change soon.
還有其它的設計想法嗎?
嗯...我想做中性一點的設計。我覺得這很有趣。我想這是時尚未來的走向。但要成功的把品牌打造出來還是有些困難,有些既有的模式還是存在,不同的消費者會想知道,這是男性款還是女性款。但這點應該很快就會改變。
I have to ask you what you were saying on our way in: [that you are going to be president one day.] Do you have political aspirations, or was that a joke?
I’m very political. I’ve had to be, you know, born just before the war. When I was a teenager, it was very important for me to find out what happened then and what happened with what politics, how’s it been, things like that. So I’m a political person. I don’t know if I would ever make it a career because I feel like when you make it a career, you lose. When you make it a career, you have to end up discarding everything.
[如果你能當一天的總統。]你會有甚麼政治抱負還是覺得這是個笑話?
我很政治。你知道的,我是戰爭前出生的人。當我還是青少年這件事已經對我很重要了,我想找出到底發生甚麼事,當時的局勢又是如何,為什麼事情會這樣。所以,我算是個很政治傾向的人。我不知道我會不會把它當作我的職業,因為我覺得當你把它當做職業就輸了。而且最終還可能讓你放棄一切。
Would you be a Hillary 2016 voter? Do you vote here?
I can’t vote, but no probably, not.
你是Hillary的支持者嗎?2016時你會投給她嗎?
我沒投票權。但我想,可能不會。
I hear that your brother has a tattoo of you? Is that true?
Yeah, he does. One of the first shoots I ever did was for French Vogue. The picture that came out with a rose in my mouth. It wasn’t the cover, but it might as well have been because it got so much coverage. I see it on T-shirts, I see it everywhere. So he decided to do that on his arm. He wanted to get my name, and I said, “You may get sick of my name, but you won’t get sick of my face.”
聽說你哥身上有你的臉孔刺青,這是真的嗎?
是。他確實有。那是我為法國Vogue第一次拍攝的照片。我的嘴裡含著一朵玫瑰。那並不是封面,但幾乎快是了,因為它出現在許多地方。像是T-shirts,我幾乎看得到它出現在任何地方。所以,他就把它刺在手臂上。他說他想得到我的名聲,我告訴他"你會受不了的,但把我的臉孔刺在身上不會怎麼樣的。"
This interview has been edited and condensed.
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雖然翻完了,但基本上覺得,還是有很多部份我自己都不知道自己在寫什麼? 或是理解意思,卻不知道要怎麼用中文寫。
這篇採訪給我的感覺跟以往有很大的不同。裡面涵蓋更多對未來的人生規劃和方向。
我之前一直覺得,或許之後不會那麼的modeling 了,但Andrej也說了,只要可以他會想繼續下去。
坦白說,幾乎是去年時,我就很希望他可以做點別的事,而不是只有模特。但還是有點私心希望模特的工作是繼續的。
也會希望他去念大學。並不是因為那張文憑有多重要。而是以前他常常提到這點,我也想到如果那時他沒做模特,現在可能已經在某個領域有了成就或做著他想做的事。而且我覺得這可以讓他有更多的選擇機會。
不過現在,他確實也開始了別的事物,建立品牌,計劃進入化妝品市場,也想成立公司 「Andrej Pejic Inc.」。
讓人很期待接下來的一切。
早在JPG的秀之前就看過他的作品,但確實是因為JPG的秀引發的效應讓我認識了Andrej。沒想到已經四年了,真的很快。
到現在都還記得第一次在電視上看到他時的感覺。雖然那只是節目當中的一個部分,JPG的秀打扮成新娘的他和一段採訪的內容。到現在我都還記的很清楚。
嗯...因為覺得自己的翻譯有錯誤,或我沒懂意思。如果有人發現了,請留言給我,讓我知道。謝謝。
新增了http://andrejpejicofficial.tumblr.com/ )
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By Brigitt Hauck BBC News Andrej Pejic modelled a wedding dress for Gaultier
